As you may know, I have been in Turkey for the past few days and I decided to plunge right into the local culture and what better way to relax after a few hard days of 'acheology' than with a steam bath. I read up on all of the various options and I asked advice from local friends and after some deliberation I knew that I didn't want one of the super fancy tourist hammams, but I also didn't want to take my life in my hands.....so I settled on an historic hammam designed by Sinan in a local neighborhood. The Tahiri Galatsaray Hamam in Beyoglo. I was assured that it was nothing like their splashy ads online and when I showed up I was pleasantly surprised. There was only one other guy there, a young European man who was getting beaten up as I was led in to sit on the very hot stone.
Looking a bit like Louis of Arabia
The front room with Iznik tiles and a wonderfully complex plaster ceiling.
The 3 story atrium with private cabins off of balconies.
The first room....getting ready to heat up is a process, as is cooling down.
The main room is a huge domed affair with a large iron chandelier that looks like it may fall on you at any moment. My masseur/ washer came in and started to scrub me down front and back and give me a simple but not overly rough rubdown, he then moved me over to basins where he threw warm water on me....more lather with a very rough mitt and then what looked like a car wash but felt more like water boarding.....tons of suds from very soft lookng but rough brushes.
By the time I caught my breath I was actually pretty relaxed. I was brought into the first room made to take a freezing cold shower and told to sit and relax......about 15 minutes later, a new attendant came in for a towel change and to dry me off.....shown out the door to a waiting room with a nice fountain and gold fish, given teas and water and that was my Turkish bath.....I would highly recommend one.....as I am actually sparkling clean....and very relaxed.
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