Showing posts with label Venice. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Venice. Show all posts

Sunday, May 20, 2012

What I'm Looking At Today: San Marco Venice


The Patriarchal Church of St Mark or San Marco, the church of gold is one of the best known examples of Byzantine architecture. It had been the private chapel of the Doge of Venice for 1000 years and was not the city's cathedral until 1807....talk about being selfish! Decided to do a post on San Marco because of the post on the Hagia Sophia, because at the end of the day, you wouldn't have San Marco without it's mama [ at least in material and treasure] Sophia.



The first San Marco was a temporary building in the Dodges Palace constructed in 828. Every city needed a major relic, so the Venetians went shopping and shoplifted the supposed relics of St Mark the Evangelist in 832....seems they smuggled it out of Alexandria in a basket of pork. There's a nice mosaic in one of the spandrels showing this. It seems they were afraid that someone would come and steal them back so they hid the relics in one of the columns...but forgot which one....some time later they showed themselves and were moved under the alter. The large campanile dates from this time.  After a few burnings in 976 and 78 the present basilica was built in 1063. The higher domes were added in 1094 when the Dodges Palace got a gothic facelift.



What started off as a chapel became quite a large building modeled on Constantine's Church of the Apostles with quite a bit of treasure from th east. Most of the treasury comes directly from The Hagia Sophia and Constantinople. Hardly a ship arrived in Venice without a few columns, marble slabs or sculptures taken from some ancient building.








Although the facade seems Gothic, the building and interiors are Byzantine.



Side view of the domes




Mosaics in the vestibule

Most if not all of the ceilings are covered in bright gold mosaics. 


One of the apse with Christ Panocrator and the apsotles.



Looking into the main space to the nave and high altar


A reflection of the Dome of the Hagia Sophia



The pulpit to the side of the main altar with stolen columns.



Marble slabs stolen from the Hagia Sophia and other ancient buildings cover the walls and are being restored.



Intricate mosaic floors similar to the omphalos but on a much grander scale. The floors are entirely covered in tesserai.



The horses of San Marco, the Quadriga date from Classical antiquity. Some say they're Greek, others that they belonged to Nero,we know they adorned Tajan's Arch. They were displayed at the Hippodrome of Constantinopole along with other treasures from antiquity and in 1204 Dodge Enrico Dandolo sent them to Venice as spoils sacked in the Fourth Crusade. Napoleon liked them as well, and took them to Paris in 1797 but they were returned in 1815. The were restored in the 90's and are now inside the basilica. The are marvelous to see.



The view as one walks out onto the balcony on the roof. The quadriga is a cast replica of the originals.






View to the Grand Canal


Sunday, January 22, 2012

Palazzo Fortuny



The Museo Fortuny is located in a 14th c palazzo in the San Marco District of Venice, it was the family  home of the Fortuny's from 1889 when the patriarch, Catalan painter Mariano Fortuny [1838-1874 aka Maria Fortuny i Marisal ] moved from Paris to Venice. You may be familiar with his more famous fashion designer son, also named Mariano  [ 1871-1949 ], who was also a very talented lighting engineer .  The museum was donated to the city of Venice in 1956 by Mariano's widow, Henriette.



The vast loft-like spaces on the second floor are entirely tented in glorious Fortuny fabrics http://www.fortuny.com/#/about  and preserve many items including paintings and sculptures from various periods. Other than the pre-Raphaelite feel, the most striking elements are long sofas based on original Ottoman Turk examples, simple cushions on simply skirted decks make for super chic seating. The table in front of the sofa is actually a 15thc carpet fragment.






On the same floor is a studio where 15th and 16th c models are kept.


The view from the top floor. Be sure to visit this museum if you're in Venice, in addition to the wonderful antiques, the ground and top floors have rotating exhibits of modern art. It's a real treasure.

Friday, December 2, 2011

More Bienale


A few very large candles








Cement sculptures






Silk panels


best to just look at them and not think too much is what I say.......

Tuesday, November 1, 2011

Venice Biennale. Zen and then some....Future Pass.....From Asia to the World


The courtyard of the Pallazo angilli-Valmarana



Everything else was 'cute' in that cartoony kind of way....and a bit disturbing.

Thursday, October 20, 2011

What I'm Looking at Today: Some Pretty Faces


It depends on what is is......



It's always fun going to museums. I'm always amazed at how modern some of the people in the paintings look.....In fact I'm sure I know some of them.



Obviously a poet





Jaded queens




Chelsea boys




More Chelsea boys




At the gym




OWS




15th c Wall Street




My two moms





 Too odd




I know her!





I know him!





Aww....just kidding