Saturday, October 6, 2012

The Duomo of Siena


Italy is one of those places where less is not more....even today when you see Italian 'minimalist' design, there's a ceratian bravura, a look at us we can out minimal you....luckily no one subscribed to minimalism back when Firenze and Siena were vying for supremacy and the Cathedral of the city with it's tower and dome are clad in horizontal marble stripes and filled with amazing art.

The church is, as are all such places, built on the foundations of an earlier building atop earlier temples. In the 9th c there was a cathedral and Bishop's palace on the site and in 1196 the cathedral's mason's guild was given charge to build a new structure....who says government doesn't create jobs.

The work began with a north-south transept and a plan to add a massive addition later on. In 1339 the main body of the  building was planned and outined, but it was not to be, Construction was halted by the Black Death in 1348, add that basic errors in construction were already in evidence and that was that....the unfinished outer wall is all that remains of the audacious plan. We climed to the top, well worth it for the view, although they only allow you 10 minutes and if you're claustrophobic quite an experience....did I say germaphobic too? nothing to hold onto other than a very greasy pillar on a spiral stair with treads the size of a slice of pizza.....





A view of the Duomo from Santa Catherina




The striped black and white facade is one of the most fascinating in Italy. Designed in 1284 by Giovani Pisano it incorporates French Gothic, Tuscan Romanesque and Classical architecture. In 1296 work was taken over by Camino di Crestini when Mr. Pisano abruptly left the city.

Pisano had planned on raising the nave to accommodate the installation of a large Rose Window designed by Duccio.





The striking black and white interior with the octogonal dome.

The whole thing is very chic.



The high altar was built by Balsassare Peruzzi in 1532. There's an enormous ciborium which was originally commissioned from Vecchietta for the church across the piazza, the Hospital di Santa Maria della Scala and brought to this spot in 1506. The four angels were add-ons and the two uppermost are considered masterpieces by Francesco di Giorgio Martini. 




The pulpit is made of Carrara marble. Sculpted between 1265-68, it's the work of Nicola Oisano and other unnamed artists. The story depicetd is of man's salvation and the Last Judgment..better be good! Prophets and the four Evangelists sit around a carousel supported on lions.....a great piece of northern Gothic whimsy.


Looking up at the dome. It's a little off, but it hasn't fallen yet...


Looking up at the nave


Below is the Madonna del Voto in her gilded chapel. Right outside are gifts left to commemorate personal miracles



The gilded dome in this small side chapel. These spaces always leave me in awe, that they were built at all and that people still believe the church is poor!


The cathedral is known for it's floors. Almost every inch is covered in fine mosaic work. This is the 'She wolf of Siena'. Most of the floors remain covered year round and are exposed for only several days a year.


The Piccolomini Altarpiece in the left nave was built between 1481-85. The impressive frame was made out of Carrara marble by the young Michelangelo to house the Madonna col bambino by Giovanni di Cecco




Below are pictures of the unfinished parts of the church which abutt the cathedral's Opera



Looking up at the unfinished arch from above the rose window




Looking at the roof and bell tower

I will do a blog later of the view......

Walk right to the kiosk and buy your famila ticket....let's you in to the catherdal, the opera with all the removed statues from the facade[no pictures please], the observatory arch and the baptistry. Well worth the day.





There was a young man in rennaissance attire getting into a newfangeld modern contraption.

I love Siena. It's a jewel. I won't say undiscovered, but most definately under appreciated. There are swarmng crowds all day in Firenze, now don't get me wrong, that's a great city, but it has lost a good deal of it's charm. Siena is still managable and very charming and the art is first rate.

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